My Camino

8/20/2013

Greetings all,

I've set up this Blog to allow my friends and family to keep track of me as I walk the Camino de Santiago in September and October, 2013. I'll be traveling from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela starting 3 September and hopefully ending 6 October.

I probably won't be overly verbose nor posting a ton of pictures but wanted a single place for folks to go to know that I'm still alive, on track to finish sometime this millennium, in good health, and enjoying my adventure in eating and drinking (and walking) my way across Spain.

Chris

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8/25/2013

Thought I should add a little more detail on my planned journey. I will be walking the Camino Frances which is about 790 km (500 miles) from St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. I'm leaving California on 9/1 and will arrive in Paris France on 9/2 in the morning. I will then catch a train to Bayonne and another to St. Jean. If the planes and trains go ok, I should be starting my walk from St. Jean on the morning of Tuesday, 9/3.

Rachel is also walking the Camino this fall . She is joining me on 9/28 in Ponferrada and will walk the last 200km (125 miles). Once she joins me I'm sure this blog will get much more exciting.

My backpack weighs in at 19 lbs but that does not include water and whatever snacks I will carry each day. Pretty light considering the 45 to 50 lbs I usually have while backpacking the Sierras. On the Camino I don't have to take a tent, stove, cooking equipment, etc., just clothes, a light-weight sleeping bag, rain gear, and plenty of band-aids and ibuprofen.

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9/1/2013

Hanging in the Toronto airport. So nice to go First Class thanks to Frequent Flyer miles. I'm thinking the Albergues may not be so first class.

Have a hour and forty-five to go thru customs in Paris and catch my train. Thinking its a long shot but gotta try. If I miss the train I start my walk on the 4th. If I catch it, I start on the 3rd. I'm just going to play it cool and well see what happens

A pic of me yesterday with my pack fully loaded…….. So much for the pic, could not make the upload work. Will try later.

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9/3/2013

I'm in Roncesvalles Sp. Yesterday and the first were your classic Planes, Trains and Automobiles: flight into Paris was a little late and I missed the train I wanted from the airport. Ended up taking the subway to Montpassage (sp) train station in south Paris. Subway broke in north Paris and luckily I was able to get to Montpassage just in time to catch the train(s) to St Jean Pied de Port.

The hike over the mountains into Spain was very tough. Just a constant steep grade that seemed to go on forever. It was almost perfect weather ( maybe a little too hot) but the 26 km really kicked my butt. I've now showered and am sitting in the outdoor cafe La Posada having a cervesa Clara. Nice! Gotta go do laundry in a while

I am having connectivity issues. My Gmail account got screwed up and I cant access it. Not sure I can fix it via my phone. Probably best to text me if you need to get in touch since I don't know when the Gmail acct will be back up.

Chase also denied the train station from charging my credit card… So much for calling them and telling them I'd be in France and Spain. I'm running off cash from the ATM. Thank you CBC.

Well my second beer arrived and its hard to type with one hand and drink with the other so ill touch base if I have wi-Fi tomorrow

Buen Camino
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9/5/2013

Looks like my 9/4 post did not make it on line. Today I walked from Larrasoana to Zariquilegul. About 27 km. the last 3 km was uphill and it was hot so it was a challenge. The blisters are starting to form but that's to be expected on a 500 mile walk.

I seemed to have found my Camino family: two Dutch, a South African, a Russian, an Irishman now living in Vancover, and a Hungarian who called it a day in Cizur Mayor but may catch back up in a day or so. Very interesting group of folks and a pleasure to walk with and hang in the Albergues.

My plan at a Spanish SIM failed miserably. My AT&T phone is apparently still locked so I will not have phone service while on the Camino. As long as I can get wifi I'm still ok. I may buy a pay as you go phone at the next big town with a cell phone provider. Most of the places I pass through are very small (300 people or less) and the don't have much in the way of stores

After today I'm almost 1/10th of the way thru the Camino de Santiago (81 km out of 790km). It's more difficult than I thought but confident I'll make it.

More posts as connectivity permits

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9/8/2013

Arrived in Logrono today (28km) after starting in Los Arcos at about 7:00AM. The first Albergue we tried was full but ended up in a nice one a few blocks over. A four bunk room with it's own bath for 10€ each.

Did not post the last few days due to phone battery charge (it's difficult to find a free working outlet in some of the Albergues.

Night before last we stayed in Lorca. Was in kink of a beater Albergue but dinner was fantastic as we're the people I met.

The walking has been much more difficult than I expected. Lots of up and down hills. The Camino seems to go by every church in every town. And where did they put the churches….on top of the highest hill! Oh well, enjoying the challenge.

Tomorrow Najeria, or if we cut it short, Naverrete.

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9/9/2013

Did the long walk to Najeria today and all the Albergus were full. We called ahead and made a reservation at the municipal Albergue in Azofra. A total of 36 kms. My feet are flat but the walk was nice.

My Camino family. Vlad, Jean, Aislinn, Jaap, Elly, Viggo ( a Norwegian we adopted) having our Pligrims Dinner in Azofra

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9/12/2013

Been a few days since I've been able to post.

Spent Tuesday night (9/10) in Redecilla de Camino (26 km) and Wednesday night in Villafranca Montes de Oca (24km). Very nice country to walk through. Lots of vineyards and fields of sunflowers.

In Villafranca I stayed in an Albergue that was attached to a nice hotel. The bed in a dormitory type room cost me 5€ and the dinner (a small steak, salad and ice cream plus wine) cost me 12€.

Today we walked from Villafranca to Burgos. Super long day (38km ) and very sunny and warm. I'm taking tomorrow off hoping for my body to recuperate and do a little sightseeing in Burgos.

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9/13/2013

Well, being on the Camino always brings changes to "the plan". Had planned on staying in Burgos for two nights but Albergue/hotel accommodations were impossible so headed out of town after sleeping in late and doing some shopping (a Spanish cell phone so I can talk to folks, a hat cause I lost mine, and stuff for my blisters). Left Burgos around noon doing site seeing on the way and arrived in Tardajos before 1500. Staying at a pension (still only 10€ a night) so it's nice to get out of the dormitory environment once in a while.

A couple of milestones: Yesterday, once in Burgos, I officially have less than 500km to go; and today, I passed the 300km walked point. In less than 4 days I will be half way!

My Camino family split up this morning: not a bad thing but will miss the group: Jean (French) has a tight schedule to be in Leon (he is only going that far this year but he started in Le Puy) so he left at 6 to try and do 30 plus km. Elly and Jaap (Dutch) left just after 9 to go to Hornillos de Camino today. Elly ends her Camino on Sept 19 and plans to pick up next year from where she stops on the 19th. Vlad (russian) developed a bad Achilles' tendon and was going to see a doctor today in Burgos. I expect for him to continue after a few days rest but we'll see. Aislinn ( South African) and I walked together today and plan to walk together tomorrow but her schedule is tighter than mine and will probably have to pull ahead of me in the next few days.

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9/14/2013

Do I look tired? This is a milestone moment picture. I'm sitting by the side of the road near the Covento de San Anton, an ancient monastery. It's a milestone because I just passed the 200 miles walked threshold. I'm also at km 27 of a 31 km (19.4 mile) day.

Staying tonight in Castrojeriz. Have done my laundry, had my shower, and am now relaxing waiting to wander somewhere for dinner.

Hope everyone is doing fine at home. If you have an iPhone, you can text me via the iCloud to my cell and I can answer when I have wifi access (which is almost every evening because most Albergues, hotels, Cafes, and bars provide free wifi access to their guests.)

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9/15/2013

Walked only 21km today to Boadilla de la Camino. Decided I needed a fairly light day after the 31km day yesterday. Also wanted to stay at a particular Albergue which was in a guide book and which has a wonderful garden and lawn. The garden and lawn are everything described. Real nice place and the showers (which I realize now is how I rate Albergues) were big, with hooks and a high shelf for your shower stuff. And hot water. A lot of the Albergues have showers smaller than a phone booth which are almost impossible to shower and dry yourself in and if you drop the soap you'll never be able to pick it up without rubbing your ass against the disgusting shower walls.

Now sitting in the garden drinking vino tinto, eating chips and waiting for dinner.

More tomorrow (27 km planned). Oh yeah…. Go Niners.

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9/16/2013

Staying tonight in Carrion de Los Condes. Another 27 or so kms from my last stop. Fairly easy yet somewhat boring walk. The path reminded me a little like middle America with slightly undulating fields of cut wheat. You can see for miles the path ahead. The terrain is actually good for my feet and leg. Pretty low impact, just a lot of steps. Hopefully I'm back to 100% by the time I get back into mountainous terrain (past Astorga).

Tomorrow or the next day I expect to reach the halfway point. The total distance is 788km (by my map) so halfway will be at the 394km from Santiago point. My map shows Ledigos at 392km from Santiago. Once I get to Ledigos I'm over half way.

Hope everyone is safe and well at home. Heard some of the news about the Navy Yard. Everyone stay safe.

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9/17/2013

Walked 23.5 km today to Ledigos. A real one horse town. There is the Albergue and associated cafe/bar. Nothing else that I could see as I walked through town. No store, no other bar/resturant, nothing but houses which most look abandoned. It appears that most of the little towns on the Camino are 1/10th or less the population that they once were in the past. It's strange walking through towns that have no people.

Plan tomorrow is to walk 30km toCalzadilla de Los Hermanillos. Because its been hard finding a available bed or room in a lot of toes lately, I tried calling a place to make a reservation…. Failed miserably. I had written down what I needed to say and said it well but could not understand a word the woman was saying to me. She ended up giving me another number to call but I must have gotten it wrong. Rachel called later and I told her what happened… She called for me and made the reservation. She definitely does better in Spanish than I do.

A picture of the walk across the Meseta. Very flat and a little boring.

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9/18/2013

Walked the 31km from Ledigos to Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos today. A long and hot journey. No hills but a long gradual climb. Still Meseta so somewhat boring without much scenery but did pass through Sahagun and crossed the Rio Cea across an ancient Roman bridge. Would post a picture
But it on my camera vice my phone.

Staying in a Casa Rual vice an Albergue tonight. In a Casa Rual you get a real bed, with reas sheets, in a reasonably private room, with an attached bath. Total luxury after the Albergue experience. Plan on staying in a Casa Rual or hotel every third or forth night if I can.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that it was a multi-milestone day: Made it past the halfway point (several times) today. By my calculations I crossed the halfway point when I left Ledigos. But, several of the villages I went through following Ledigos also claim to be the halfway point. All very confusing and somewhat amusing. I guess all that really matters is when I get to Santiago, not when I'm halfway there.

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9/19/2013

Walked 25km from Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos to Mansilla de las Mulas today. Pretty much walk the last of the Meseta which is good since I was getting tired of the long stretches of nothing. There is beauty on the Meseta but it was getting to be too much of a good thing. Actually made good time getting into the Albergue El Jardin at 12:30 after leaving Calzadilla at 6:45. Was the first Peregrino into the Albergue which in itself is a first. Got my shower, washed my clothes, and got some much needed refreshments. After siesta will explore the town. Need new shoelaces for my boots in that the right boot lace is almost severed.

Tomorrow I will pass through Leon hoping to stay on the far side of Leon in La Virgen del Camino. Another 26 km day but today both my feet and my leg (tendinitis) felt good so hopefully I'm healed for the hike into the mountains after Astorga 3 days from now.

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9/20/2013

Walked through Leon today to La Virgen del Camino today as planned. Staying in the Albergue d. Antonino y Dina Cina. Fairly nice and new but still a lot of beds in the two sleeping rooms. Last night the guy in the rack above me snored all night except when he awoke in a coughing fit. May have to do a Casa Rual tomorrow night if I can't get any sleep tonight. I got in late to the Albergue because of the sightseeing in Leon and ended up with a top bunk. Almost impossible to get in and out of with my sore leg. Oh well, I will survive.

Expect to pass the 300 miles walked point tomorrow. A milestone and getting past the Meseta was another milestone. Was getting tired of walking those straight, flat roads that seemed to go on forever.

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9/23/2013

It's been a couple of days since I last posted. Was a little lazy on 21st and had no wifi last night. Stayed in Albergue Karl Reisner in Hostipal de Orbigo on the 21st (29 km) and Albergue El something. the night of the 22nd (26km) in Santa Catalina de Somoza. Starting to climd now. Plan for today is to climb past Cruz de Ferro where I will place my stone I carried from Camarillo at the cross there. I also will place a dog tag of Shadows. Best damn dog ever! From there will spend the night in Manjarin, or El Acebo if I'm feel like continuing to walk today. Blisters and leg are doing well(knock on wood) so I may go for the extra distance. We'll see

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Well an update. Made it to Cruz de Ferro and placed my rock and Shadows dog tag at the base of the cross. A perfect morning. Got into El Acebo around 3:00 and every bed in town was taken. Had to walk another 4 km to get a place to stay. I'm in a Pension in Riego de Ambros sitting on the veranda watching the sun set and finishing off the bottle of wine I had with dinner. A 34km day but the ending is perfect. Spain is wonderful.

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9/24/2013

Arrived in Ponferrada about noon today after a short walk (13km) from Riego de Ambros. I'm staying in Pomferrada until at least the 27th awaiting Rachel's arrival on the evening of the 26th. Although my feet and leg are getting much better, the couple days off are sure to help so hopefully I can finish the Camino without much pain and suffering.

Per one of my maps, I have walked 577 km (360 miles) and have 211km (132 miles) to go. I have walked for 22 straight days with several of those days over 20 miles, most around 16-18 miles and just two where I walked less than 10 miles. I am looking forward to a couple days off!

Aislinn, the last of my original Camino Family, continues her walk tomorrow. She has been a wonderful walking partner. I will miss the lessons on South African politics and history.

Was in a Supermercado here in Ponferrada and noted their selection of wines: Vino Tinto and Vino Blanco for 0.89€ a bottle. Did not buy any today but will get a bottle or two tomorrow. Being the wine connoisseur that I am, I'll probably splurge and buy the top end stuff for 3€…haha

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9/28/2013

Been several days since my last post due to a combination of laziness and lack of connectivity.

Rachel arrived safe in Ponferrada on the evening of the 26th. I met her at the train station at 9:30PM. She was tired but overall she had no issues with planes, trains or automobiles in her travels.

I had rested in Ponferrada for two days waiting for Rachel to arrive. The rest did my legs and feet a lot of good and I feel pretty good now with only limited aches and pains.

Yesterday, the 27th, Rachel and I walked 25.5 km from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo. It rained pretty hard for much of the day. My first real rain I've had in 20 plus days of walking. I thought Rachel did great walking the 25.5 km, especially since it was her first day and with the rain. We arrived fairly late in Villafranca and decided to stay at Hotel Casa Mendez. We actually got an "apartment" with a couple of bedrooms and bath. Nice. Plus it had a space heater we used to dry out our wet clothes.

Today ( the 28th) we walked 24 km from Villafranca to La Faba. A little less than yesterday but the second day walking ( for Rachel) is always tougher than the first, and we started the "big climb" up towards O'Cebreiro, the highest point on the Camino Frances. Tonight we are staying in the Albergue La Faba. It's run by a German Confraternity and is very nice. Will see how sleeping in a dorm of 20 plus goes. Oh yeah, no wifi here or at the apartment we stayed at last night so you may not see this update until we get to a cafe in O'Cebreiro with wifi tomorrow morning.

Tomorrow not sure where we be staying but would like to shoot for Triacastela, a 26.4 km day.

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9/29/2013

Did the 26km walk from La Faba to Triacastela today. It was a long day due to the 380m ( almost 1200ft) climb to O'Cebreiro , a 660m decent into Triacastela, and the fact that it rained and the wind blew most of the day. It's our third straight day with rain and the weather reports indicate two more days of rain. Thank god for my rain pants but wish my pack rain fly kept the pack drier.

Now have less than 100miles to go to Santiago. Do not see any issues with reaching Santiago on the 6th as planned

Hey to my Dad on his birthday, 29 September.

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10/2/2013

It's early in the morning (1:30AM) of the 2nd. Had not posted anything for a couple of days because of laziness and the act that the wifi in the hotel I'm staying in tonight was not working. Woke up and noticed that the wifi was now up so thought I would post.

Rachel and I spent the night of Sept 30 in Sarria after a 20km walk from Triacastela. Not too bad a walk other than a lot of pavement walking into Sarria. Also, path into Sarria and past the place we stayed was up a hill with a million stairs (at least it seemed like a million). Pavement really makes my feet flat and although my blisters and tendinitis are much better my feet still get pretty tired after a day of walking, espically on asphalt and sidewalks. Although it threatened to rain all day, it actually never rained on us at all and it was a pretty good day for walking.

Sarria is the starting point for Pligrims who want to get their Compostela but don't want to walk the whole Camino Frances. It's a little over 100km from Sarria to Santiago and if you walk at least the last 100km into Santiage you can get your Compostela ( certificate of completion). Anyway, Sarria was a busy place with lots of pilgrims wandering about. Rachel and I stayed at a Pension vice Albergue (Rachel seems to have had enough of the Albergue life). The Pension was not 5 Star but definitely better an Albergue.

On 1 Oct we walked from Sarria to Portomarin (22.5km). A very beautiful walk thru Galicia with lots of mountain views and and small farms and villages. We had to stop once because a guy and his dogs were herding his cows and sheep up the road thru the village. Kind of fun to watch the dogs work the cows and sheep.

It did rain most of the morning but I've found I don't mind walking in the rain so long as its not too heavy, the wind doesn't blow too hard and my feet stay dry. The rain today was mild and peaceful.

A big milestone on the walk today…. We crossed the 100km to Santiago mark. I am also right at the 700 km walked mark(should cross that threshold a kilometer or so out of town today) and Rachel has walked over 100km and is over half way on her 211 km walk from Ponferrada to Santiago. In Galicia the path has marker stones every 0.5 km showing the distance to Santiago. It's nice watching the distance ratchet down.

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10/2/2013

Hey all,

Walked 25.2 km to Palas de Rei today. Super nice day: high clouds and just a sprinkle or two. Did not even break out the rain gear. Just about perfect for a long walk; not too hot, not too cold.

The countryside of Galicia is absolutely beautiful. Spent most of the day walking stone/ gravel paths through forests and fields. Through the fields the path was often lined on both sides by ancient stone walls. A postcard every step. The only issue is we walked past many dairy farms and the smell at times can be a real experience.

Today I did pass the 88 km marker which means that I officially have walked over 700km (437mi). Another milestone and one that after the pain and suffering I have endured walking the Camino, I am truly amazed I have accomplished what I have.. This has been a challenging journey but also one that proves if you tackle things a day at a time, a step at a time at a time, you can accomplish anything. Something I can apply to work and all of life. I think I knew that but the Camino reinforces what is obvious but often ignored.

Now Rachel wants to add a few words to the blog:

As you may or may not know, my original plan was to meet with Helga & Richard (dear friends from Germany) and join Chris in the walk from Sarria to Santiago (the last 100 km). As fate would have it, plans changed and I joined Chris in Ponferrada to walk the last 211 km with him. Now that we are close to finishing the Camino, I would like to share the following: when you carry everything you need with you, you discover there is not much you really need in life; you carry necessities in your backpack and you carry the love and support of family and friends in your heart – I feel truly blessed to have this experience with Chris! It has been challenging and you realize that with all goals you set for yourself you just need to put one foot in front of the other and i promise you – you will finish! I want to wish Snooky a happy birthday and tell him how blessed I am to have such a wonderful brother! Keep the faith – keep putting one foot in front of the other and count your blessings! i count all of you as blessings! xo

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10/4/2013

Yesterday we walked 25+km to a Casa Rual just outside Castaneda. A fairly long day considering it rained a lot and I had a little accident slipping and falling on the trail. I twisted my ankle pretty bad so now Rachel is always waiting for me vice the other way around. Luckily, there was a German doctor staying at the Casa Rual last night and she wrapped my ankle and gave me some drugs for the swelling and pain. The ankle seems to be pretty good this morning and we have a short day (16km) so don't see any problems reaching Santiago early on the 6th. Rachel has been fighting bad blisters but is plodding on also.

We have less than 40km so the end is in sight. Tonight we plan on staying in Salceda.

Evening update: Made it to Salceda as planned. Very nice walk of about 16. Km but unfortunately had rain off and on. Staying in an Albergue/hotel in Salceda. Very nice place and possibly the best room in recent times. Was able to get all my laundry done so I will have clean clothes for entering Santiago on the 6th.

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10/5/2013

Rachel and I are spending the night  in Lavacolla at the Hotel San Palo.  A relatively short walk of 18km today leaving us about 10km tomorrow morning to get into Santiago.  We are both getting quite worn out and are looking forward to ending the walking part of or journey. 

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10/6/2013

Rachel and I arrived at the cathedral in Santiago at 11:00 AM today. For me it was a journey of 788 km ( 493miles) and for Rachel it was a journey of 211 km (132 miles).. We both show the signs of the Camino (blisters, tendinitis, sprains and sore muscles). For me. I'm guessing I lost at least 10 lbs (maybe more) and I gained a whole new appreciation for the words "perseverance" and "endurance".

The Camino is far more than a long walk, it's a lesson in pushing yourself day after day both physically and mentally.. I am proud and amazed I made it. The Camino is also a place where you may start out walking alone but where you seldom walk alone. I met and became friends with many wonderful and interesting people from all over the world. A life-changing experience, I am looking forward to talking in detail and showing everyone the pictures I have taken here in Spain. Today and tomorrow we stay in Santiago then off to Bodegas Puelles in the La Rioja region for five days of R&R, then to Madrid and home. Should be home the evening of the 15th and back to my wonderful job on the 17th. Rachel may detour in Madrid and take a side trip to Germany (all the details not yet worked out) but I will let her tell you about her experiences and plans below.

Chris

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I made it!! Arriving at the Cathedral at 11 am with my 'rock' by my side. As we walked toward the cathedral, I met an elderly woman and we started talking. She offered words if encouragement and told me how special it was that I was walking with my husband and my arrival in my birthday. As we walked arm in arm- me in my hiking clothes and her dressed in her Sunday best, I felt amazing for having the opportunity to be a part of something 'global' and indescribable! She asked if she could kiss me goodbye and she kissed both cheeks and went into a small church. I am truly blessed by all of the people I met on the Camino; Ulrich – from Sai Paolo brazil – met him the first day walking – and spent a lot of time crossing paths until the last day when we saw him in the cathedral. He has walked the Camino and variations thereof over 7 times – he is 70 and was retracing the walk he made with his wife of 40 years. Tess from Canada – a very inspirational woman we sent her off to Finistierra today (3 more days of walking just to get to the end of the world!) Joanne from the Bay Area, two German doctors from Frankfurt who tried to mend us, etc., etc. Again I thank all of you for your prayers and good wishes! xo Raquel

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10/12/2013

Finishing my last few days in Spain at the Bodegas Puelles in Abalos. It's a B&B in a operating winery in The La Rioja region of Spain. Have been knocking around with Kurt and Debbie Schultzel for the last few days but they left today for more adventures in France and I'm resting my ankle and consuming a "little" wine to help with the pain. Rachel and I are heading to Madrid on Monday then I fly home to California on the 15th and Rachel is heading to Munich Germany to visit friends and family for a couple weeks. Pictures below represent my initial and current status here at Bodegas Puelles. See you all soon.

Chris